Veritas Newsletter

2 March 2009

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2008 in Veneto

 

Prosecco

The new vintage of Montesel Prosecco has arrived. We are excited to share this beautiful item with Michigan wine drinkers. There is something inimitable about fresh, hand-harvested Prosecco farmed with low yields. One finds an abundant sense of honey and floral aromas which are hallmarks of this fickle grape, but when drunk this fresh the bracing acidity somehow makes the flavors seem perfectly dry and decorated with chalk flavored minerality.

It is important to stress that Prosecco compares with Champagne only crudely at best. Prosecco is not made to be like Chapmagne. Hypothetically, the barrels and bottle refermentation identified with Champagne, besides adding to the cost, would obliterate the freshness and delicacy of the Prosecco variety. There are some Champagne method wines produced in this region, but they tend to be made with Chardonnay.

 

2008 Quality

2008 was a complicated vintage. There were threats in the spring from mildew and in the fall from hail. But in 2008 hand produced wines like Montesel have an opportunity to show a more obvious gap in quality between them and products of larger scale agriculture.

Renzo and Vania Montesel are the producers of Montesel's 2008 Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene.

 

History

Ancient etymology suggests that “Conegliano” derives from “Colle di Giano” which translates as "the hills of Japheth." Japheth was the third son of Genesis' Noah, the discoverer and avid consumer of viticulture and winemaking. Conegliano is the institutional center of Prosecco culture and one of the most important oenelogical centers of Italy. In 1969 the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene area was recognized as the only zone authorized to produce Prosecco D.O.C. and today Prosecco is the best selling sparkling wine in Italy.

The Prosecco vine is indigenous and has been cultivated in the hills of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene since 1800. Its origins are linked to “Pucino,” a wine that was well known and appreciated in Roman times. Here the vines grow in their ideal environment; the composition of soil, hills exposed to plenty of sunlight, frequent and abundant rainfall, constant mild temperatures between April and October and strong marked variations in temperature in the ripening period.

 

Biology

Prosecco grapes grow in large bunches and are round or slightly oval. When ripe they are yellow with a thin skin which releases a rich perfume during the late grape harvest. The timing of the harvest followed by a carefully monitored vinification, do the rest.

During the preparation of Prosecco the most important rule is to respect what nature has given and keep any technical intervention to an absolute minimum. The grapes are pressed gently to obtain the best must and then left to rest for 10-12 hours at a controlled temperature. It is then decanted, yeasts are added, and its left to ferment at 18-20 ° C. The result is a richly scented wine

 

Attraction

After a few months of natural refermentation Prosecco made in this manner becomes a beautiful wine that overwhelms the palate with a velvety softness and a lively effervescence. It is straw-colored with a fruity scent of peach, apple, pear and a hint of citrus fruits which tend toward a floral fragrance; rich and fresh sensation.

Served chilled, the Montesel Prosecco is an apéritif “par excellence,” also a perfect accompaniment to soups, pastas with delicate sauces, fresh cheese and fine white meats.

Prosecco's sales in the United States have multiplied in recent decades. The surge in demand invariably will force a differentiation in qualities, as mass producers, in Italy and in other countries, seek to get on the bandwagon.

From The New York Times:

'For now, says Mr. Moretti Polegato of Villa Sandi, “everybody involved in prosecco production is happy.”' (link)